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deep water wave only depends on T: wave length Ld (in meters) equals 1.56 T 2(wave period squared, in seconds) So, a 10 second wave in deep water will have wave length of ........m |
intermediate waves too complicated (with hyperbolic tangents) |
shallow water wave only depends on waterdepth (d): C = (gd)1/2, o r celerity = square root of g = "gravity" (say 10 m.sec-2) x depth so in 5 m depth, wave travels at ........................m/sec or .................km/hr and in 3 m, wave travels at ........................m/sec or .................km/hr |
(7) - Wave Energy: E = 1/8 (rho) g H2 L ,
where (rho) = density (gramcm-3) or weight/volume, or mass.acceleration/volume, MLT-2/ L3 = ML-2T
a n d
g = "gravity" = 980 cm/sec2, say 10ms-2, of LT-2
NOTE 1: essentially, the first 3 terms in the above equation are constants
density of water is about 1 g.cm3, but what would be the energy of a wave in a quicksilver (mercury) ocean?....
g="gravity", only applies to Earth, and would be different elsewhere.
Thus, the formula reduces to E=kH2L
NOTE 2: read this as :" wave energy is directly proportional to the wavelength and to the square of the waveheight"
so that if one wave is three times as long as another, it will have 3 times as much energy,
b u t
if one wave is three times as high as another, it will have 3 2, or 9 times as much energy